Barolo Ginestra Vigna del Gris 2020

Fabio Fantino has done a superb job in shepherding his family's estate into its second generation. In my view, the wines have never been better. Today's Barolos show greater precision and energy than the wines of the past, and I say that as someone who bought these wines heavily in the early 2000s. The 2020 Barolo harvest was relatively compact, from October 7 to 10. The wines still see quite a bit of French oak, including malolactic fermentation in barrel, but the introduction of casks in the second year of aging and an overall emphasis on freshness in the wines have been so beneficial. The 2020s are seriously impressive.

The 2020 Barolo Ginestra Vigna del Gris is ample and resonant in this tasting. As has been the case for a few years now, the Vigna del Gris is marked by finessed tannins, likely a result of older vines and more favorable weather for cooler sites like this one: Dark and ample, with gorgeous textural depth the Vigna del Gris is so expressive in this tasting. Its is another impeccable wine from Conterno Fantino. Plum, blood orange, chalk and white pepper linger on the persistent finish. 95 points, Antonio Galloni