Azienda Agricola Boffalora was established in 2005 when Giuseppe Guglielmo
left behind his former career as a panel beater and took over his
father-in-law's vineyards. Giuseppe farms a few hectares, including some
pre-phylloxera, broken into a patchwork of vineyards in Castione Andevenno, just
west of the Sassella zone.
The vineyards in Valtellina are planted
on the northern side of the Adda river, centred around the city of Sondrio and
rising, in some places, almost vertically. Precious parcels are terraced into
the steep hillsides where Chiavennasca - the local name for Nebbiolo - is
planted to soak up as much of the late sun as possible. This is back breaking
work requiring an average of 1200 hours per hectare (compared to 300-400 in the
Langhe) and the only machinery used in the vineyards is the funicular to
transport the grapes down the slopes.
Giuseppe is also a beekeeper,
cultivating both his bees and vines sustainably to encourage biodiversity, and
the land teems with life and energy. Chiavennasca of Valtellina makes a lighter
framed wine than its Piemonte siblings, built more on finesse than power. But
what is really striking about Giuseppe's Valtellina Superiore 'Pietrisco' is its
energy and perfume. Incredibly fine, there are notes of rose, orange, red
berries and tea, the wine's shape and feel driven by the purity of fruit silky
texture. Production here is tiny, just a few thousand bottles, and we are
privileged to bring some to Australia.